Why Are Gems Expensive? The Gemstone Journey: From Mine to Market
Canadamark Diamonds: From Rough Mined Diamond Material to Faceted Polished Diamonds For Retail. Photo courtesy of Burgundy Diamond Mines.
Have you ever marvelled at your beautiful twinkling gemstone in a piece of jewellery and wondered about its origins? The journey from a raw mineral hidden beneath the earth to a sparkling centrepiece is anything but simple. Within the trade, this process is known as ‘the gemstone pipeline’—a fascinating sequence of stages that add value, artistry, and history.
Some gemstones even cycle through these phases more than once before reaching their final destination. Let’s find out what makes gemstones so valuable and desirable!
Unearthing Nature’s Treasures
For natural gemstones, the adventure begins deep within the earth, where deposits are discovered and mined—provided extraction is economically viable. In order for gems to even grow there has to be several geological factors and various minerals and elements interacting simultaneously and even then there is no guarantee a crystal will form. Once it has grown it has to be found, mined (often using different methods that may fracture or destroy stones accidentally) and then sorted into size and quality. The chances of finding larger stones with higher clarities are, therefore, harder and rarer stones will be worth more to collectors and jewellery enthusiasts.
Some gemstones appear as a fortunate by-product of mining other resources; for instance, red Pyrope garnets sometimes emerge alongside diamonds, while Tsavorite and Merelani garnets are found with Tanzanite.
Depending on the locality that stones are found in can mean significantly different prices at the retail end of the chain due to the reputations of those areas producing high quality gem grade material ie. Emeralds from Columbia will cost more than emeralds from Zambia and rubies from Burma will cost more than those from Mozambique. Some diamond companies also have systems in place for traceability so that they can track the finished cut and polished diamond from the rough it began at and includes documentation. This, however, means higher retail prices compared to other diamonds of equal colour and clarities. DeBeers uses Tracr and Burgundy Diamond Mines has Canadamark Diamonds for Canadian diamonds. Here is our article on Canadamark Diamonds if you’d like to read about traceability in Canada.
Mining operations vary in scale, from small-scale artisanal efforts to vast industrial enterprises. Diamond mining, in particular, stands out as one of the largest sectors due to the inherent value of every diamond, regardless of size or quality.
For synthetic gemstones, the journey starts in a laboratory, where they are carefully cultivated. However, even these lab-grown marvels rely on mined raw materials. Whether formed by nature or crafted by science, every gemstone embarks on its journey at this crucial first stage.
Yellow Gold Garnet Pendant £715.00
Round Diamond Cluster Ring in Platinum £14,750.00
If miners come across red garnets, like Pyrope, this is usually an indication that diamonds might also be close by.
Tsavorite Garnet and Diamond Ring in Platinum £4,025.00
Tanzanite & Diamond Ring £3,500.00
Miners and geologists looking for Tanzanites know that green Tsavorite and Merelani garnets grow in rocks near Tanzanites and this is a good indication if they stumble across these vivid green gems.
From Rough Stone to Radiance
Once extracted, rough gemstones enter a global network of rough dealers, treaters, and cutters—often spanning different countries. Many cutting centres are in Asia, particularly India and Thailand. Some stones undergo treatments to enhance their colour and clarity before being cut, while others proceed directly to skilled lapidaries (gem cutters) who unlock their brilliance. Large mining corporations often oversee this entire process in-house, ensuring quality control. Meanwhile, independent artisan cutters prefer sourcing their materials through trusted dealers, selecting each rough stone with an expert eye.
Cutting a gemstone can take anywhere from a few hours for smaller, simpler stones to several days for larger or more complex cuts. Experienced cutters may take 2–5 hours on average, while beginners might spend 20 hours or more per stone, depending on its size and complexity.
Key factors affecting cutting time:
Stone size: Larger stones take significantly longer to cut.
Stone complexity: Stones with inclusions or unusual shapes require more careful handling.
Cut design: Elaborate facet patterns demand greater precision and time.
Gem cutter’s skill level: Experienced cutters work more efficiently and achieve superior results.
A Step Cut or Emerald Cut Diamond in Yellow Gold
A Teal Blue Oval Sapphire with Kite Shaped Diamonds Set in Yellow Gold
Roman Style Cabochon Emerald & Yellow Gold Ring £1,925.00
Crafting Beauty: The Role of Jewellery Makers
A finely cut gemstone is a masterpiece in itself, but its journey doesn’t end there. Next, it is sold to either a dealer specialising in cut stones or directly to a jewellery manufacturer. Large jewellery houses often manage the entire process—from mine to market—while independent designers, such as us here at Timothy Roe, seek out unique stones from a variety of sources, crafting bespoke pieces that tell their own stories.
Some stones may have certificates and/or dossiers which means it was sent to a gem grading lab for testing as a loose cut and polished (faceted) stone and this will also add value and increase the price the consumer pays at the end. Some certificates and lab analyses can cost anywhere from several hundred pounds to several thousand pounds depending on the stone, type of testing needed and the laboratory carrying it out.
The Final Destination: The Retail Showcase
Once set into a piece of jewellery, the gemstone reaches its final gateway—the retailer. This is where gemstones meet their future owners, making it one of the most pivotal stages in the pipeline. It is also where knowledge, trust, and ethics come into play. Customers rely on retailers to provide accurate information about their purchases, ensuring transparency in a market rich with history and craftsmanship.
A Gemstone’s Story Never Ends
Unlike many consumer goods, gemstones and jewellery are timeless. If well cared for, most pieces will outlive their owners. A jewel purchased today may be passed down through generations as a treasured heirloom or re-enter the market decades later—whether at an auction, pawnshop, or a jeweller specialising in second-hand pieces. Some may even be repurposed into new creations. Jewellery can be dismantled, its metals refined and reused, and its gemstones given a fresh lease of life in another exquisite design.
The gemstone pipeline or a gemstone’s journey, is a mesmerising web of discovery, craftsmanship, and commerce. Behind every polished gem lies a rich history of transformation, human ingenuity, and countless hours of skilled artistry. The next time you admire a sparkling gemstone, remember—it has travelled an incredible path to reach you, passing through the hands and lives of many along the way, enriching their livelihoods and sustaining entire communities through the art and trade of gem craftsmanship.
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