How to take care of real pearls

Pearls are a timeless classic. Commonly associated with quiet luxury and bridal wear they have a soft subtle charm, elegance and romantic aesthetic. They can uplift any casual outfit for a modern twist and give you that refined polished sophisticated look. Thought to symbolise femininity, purity, tears of the Gods, and representing the journey of the soul along the path to perfection they have been used in traditions and cultures all over the world.

Pearls have often been associated with women, but many kings from all over the world have been depicted wearing pearls, even the infamous Henry VIII, and we are seeing the return of men; Hollywood artists, singers and actors, sporting them in new modern ways on the red carpet.

Pearls have been a staple in many jewellery collections and come in a variety of colours, lustres, shapes and sizes. From tiny seed pearl chokers to long multi-strand necklaces with graduating pearl sizes to the whimsical misshapen baroques. Pearls can be used in any form of jewellery; brooches, necklaces, earrings, bangles, bracelets and rings etc. and pair well with any precious metal. They can also last for decades, if not generations, with the right care and maintenance.

You may have heard that from time to time pearls will need restringing and generally pearls need extra care and attention. That is true. In this article we’ll not only tell you why but we’ll tell you how you can take care of your real pearls to keep these organic gems looking pristine and in immaculate condition with their beautiful lustre and shine in tact so you can enjoy wearing them over and over again.

If a diamond is a 10 on the Moh’s Hardness Scale then a pearl is a 3. Pearls are incredibly soft. They have a delicate structure and can be scratched and damaged easily. They form in shellfish; oysters and mussels mostly, and start when an irritant like a parasite or grain of sand enters the shell. Cultured pearls are helped by us humans inserting this said irritant or a nucleus in the form of a seed, bead, or piece of tissue or shell. As a defence mechanism the pearl forms a coating of nacre or mother-of-pearl (aragonite) over this foreign intruder and keeps building up concentric layers until a pearl shape is formed. When the pearl is ready and has reached full size it can be harvested and then polished for jewellery. Pearls are a combination of calcium carbonate and protein.

1. Avoid contact with chemicals: Pearls are vulnerable and sensitive to acids, chemicals, and even perspiration due to their chemical composition. Being calcium carbonate and protein they are naturally alkaline. Acids, even the chemicals in tap water and excessive sweating will attack the nacre. Avoid exposing them to substances like perfume, hairspray, fake tan, cosmetics, and household cleaners. Perfume, as well as other products, contain alcohol which can make pearls crack and turn yellow. Do not soak them in washing up liquid nor use ultrasonic cleaners. These can dull the lustre and damage the surface of the pearls.

2. Put on pearls last: When dressing, make sure to put on your pearls after applying makeup, fake tan, hairspray, and perfume. This reduces the exposure of pearls to these substances. If wearing perfume try to spray it on places where the pearls do not come into contact. The soft outer coating can be worn away with the chemicals.

3. Wipe pearls after wearing: Gently wipe your pearls with a soft, slightly damp but not wet, microfibre cloth after wearing them to remove any traces of oils, sweat, or other substances. This helps prevent the buildup of residue that can affect the pearls' appearance.

4. Store pearls separately: Store pearls in a soft pouch or a separate compartment in your jewellery box to prevent them from scratching against other jewellery or harder gemstones. Whilst shock resistant they are susceptible to being scratched. Pearls also need to stay hydrated but this does not mean store them in a bowl of water. The moisture in the air is adequate enough for pearls so avoid putting them in plastic zip lock bags and airtight containers because this can lead to drying out, cracking and turning yellow. Wrapping them in unbleached or not chemically-treated cotton, silk, velvet or chamois leather will help retain the moisture from the air. Also, store pearl necklaces lying flat. If left hanging the thread will stretch and fray with the tension.

5. Avoid direct sunlight and extreme temperatures: Pearls are organic gems and can be affected by extreme heat and direct sunlight. Heat can dehydrate them quickly making them brittle and crack and direct sunlight can bleach and fade the colour. Store them in a cool, dry place, and preferably not on window sills or sunny areas for prolonged periods.

6. Stringing and general inspection: Regularly check the silk or nylon cord for signs of wear or stretching. If you notice any issues, it's advisable to have the pearls professionally restrung to prevent breakage. If you wear them regularly for example, weekly, it is recommended you have them restrung annually but if you wear them less often then every two to three years is advised. There are different types of restringing services available so consult with a professional jeweller on the best approach for your necklace. Remember, individually knotting or double knotting will help secure the pearls and prevent an entire strand from scattering over the floor if it breaks but it will make your necklace longer in length and increase the distance between each pearl. This can give it a unique style but if you want a choker or shorter seamless look then this might not be the right option. Earrings tend to be glued using jeweller’s crystal cement or similar. Sometimes the earring posts can loosen with wear and tear and the pearls can come away. Regularly checking the backs also ensures you do not loose your gems. Also check your clasps, particularly on weightier pearl pieces.

7. Regular wearing: Wearing your pearls regularly can actually help maintain their lustre. The natural oils from your skin can contribute to the pearls' radiance and stops them from drying out, going brittle, discolouring or cracking. Just remove for sports or activities where you’ll sweat or possibly knock them but wear them regularly if you have them. It will do them good and keep them hydrated!

8. Avoid water exposure: While pearls are formed in water, they should not be submerged for long periods especially as tap water and other water sources have different levels of chemicals. Avoid wearing pearls when swimming especially due to the chlorine and pool chemicals, when bathing, or doing activities that involve water, as prolonged exposure can weaken and fray the silk thread and damage the pearls.

9. Professional cleaning and repair: If your pearls start to lose their lustre, or you notice the thread has started to fray, separate or discolour, it's best to have them professionally cleaned and repaired. Most jewellers, like us here at Timothy Roe, offer pearl maintenance services and can answer any questions you might have. If you have lost pearls, often it is possible to order replacements but please bear in mind this can take rather a long time to source the perfect match. No two pearls are alike. They are individually unique so trying to find the best match of colour, lustre and overtone hue, shape and size and that is within your budget from various suppliers can take a while.

Tahitian pearl necklace, single strand